A guest story from Brent and Ana, South African / Flemish sailors aboard SV Impi, a Lagoon 440, who crossed to French Polynesia on their second circumnavigation. Follow their voyage on Facebook @cat.impi.
A little about us: we’re Brent and Ana, South African / Flemish sailors aboard SV Impi, a Lagoon 440. We first visited French Polynesia 13 years ago, spending 18 months exploring the various island groups during 2013–2014. The experience left such a lasting impression that we decided to return this year on our second circumnavigation.
A reassuring welcome — before we even reached land
This time, our first interaction with French Polynesia came long before we reached land, during the passage from the Galápagos to Hiva Oa — the same great trade-wind crossing that sailors make each year on the Pacific Puddle Jump. We encountered several isolated AIS beacons and assumed they were marking fishing nets, but we had no idea how deep the nets extended. We called the French Polynesian JRCC (Joint Rescue Coordination Centre) via WhatsApp and received an immediate response. The beacons did indeed mark nets, but provided we stayed about one mile from them, we could safely pass between them.
It is remarkable to have such a service available across such a vast and remote chain of islands. Regular weather forecasts are broadcast over the radio, and it is reassuring to know that the JRCC is only a radio call away should you ever need assistance.
The easiest clearance in the Pacific
After the expensive and often complicated arrival procedures in Panama and the Galápagos, it was wonderfully refreshing to arrive in French Polynesia, where the clearance process was simple, efficient and stress-free. The ladies at the Gendarmerie in Hiva Oa were exceptionally friendly and welcoming, and within about ten minutes we were free to enjoy our first tuna in coconut milk, surrounded by the fragrance of blooming frangipani.
A safe ocean crossing followed by such a warm and uncomplicated welcome creates a wonderful first impression for any sailor — and that’s before even mentioning the spectacular scenery that greets you on arrival: lush green mountains, tropical flowers and fruit trees everywhere you look.
It’s the people who bring us back
Holly, a Vietnamese-American mum sailing with her eight-year-old daughter Maddy aboard SV Seasential, summed it up perfectly: every island has its own unique character. From the dramatic, lush Marquesas to the crystal-clear atolls of the Tuamotus, there are endless opportunities for adventure, learning and meaningful connection.
For us, that connection with local people is one of the main reasons we enjoy French Polynesia so much. The friendly greetings, genuine smiles and generosity are truly remarkable in a world that often seems increasingly driven by money. We have been given fresh fruit, received unexpected help with repairs, and been welcomed into communities where local people happily reminisced with us about how their islands had changed over the past 13 years. We made many local friends during our first visit in 2013, and one of the highlights of returning was seeing them again — laughing together over photographs of all of us looking much younger.
Josh, a young American sailor aboard SV Nyla, also says the warmth of the people was one of the highlights of his time in Polynesia. Even without sharing a common language, he found the locals incredibly kind and welcoming. Learning a few greetings in Tahitian made every interaction feel more personal and helped him connect with the communities he visited.
Provisioning — and getting around Tahiti
We were also pleasantly surprised by the shopping experience in Tahiti. Compared with 2013, there is now a far greater range of healthy food from around the world. Free-range eggs, quality chicken and, of course, all the traditional French delicacies were especially appreciated after weeks at sea.
It was easy to explore Tahiti using the inexpensive public bus system, where local people were, as always, incredibly helpful — happily sharing timetables and making sure we got off at the right stop. At just 200 CFP francs, the buses represent excellent value.
Beneath the surface: Fakarava and the Wall of Sharks
We have always loved snorkelling and diving, and we have particularly fond memories of diving the passes in Fakarava during the grouper spawning season. In fact, we have become so attached to these magnificent fish that we no longer eat grouper — we now think of them as pets! More than once, a grouper would settle on my fins, rolling its eyes as if asking for protection from the many sharks cruising past.
For Jessica, the Swedish co-captain of SV Pennylane, and her husband Jeff from the UK, diving the famous Wall of Sharks was one of the major highlights on their sailing bucket list.
Adventures ashore
Of course, it is not only the underwater world that makes French Polynesia so special. There is an abundance of activities ashore, many of them completely free. Hiking to the summit above Maupiti rewards you with breathtaking views over some of the bluest water imaginable, while the waterfalls of Moorea offer another unforgettable experience. Other adventures can be enjoyed with local guides — for Josh, exploring the interior of Tahiti by ATV remains one of his favourite memories of his time in French Polynesia.
Why sailors keep coming back
Whether your passion is sailing, diving, hiking, discovering different cultures or simply slowing down and enjoying life, French Polynesia offers something truly unique and special. It is the combination of spectacular natural beauty, welcoming people and an easy, relaxed way of life that keeps drawing sailors back — just as it drew us back after thirteen years.
In photos: aboard SV Impi
Words and voyage by Brent and Ana aboard SV Impi (Lagoon 440). Follow their journey on Facebook @cat.impi. Brent and Ana crossed to the Marquesas on the trade-wind route celebrated each year by the Pacific Puddle Jump — read the companion piece on the Pacific Puddle Jump journal.
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